Decoding Ukrainian Embroidery: The Language of Motifs
Embroidery lets us weave stories and history together. Let's unravel the secrets behind the repeating symbols, the motifs, that make this art form so special.
Mallows and Stars
The mallow is the name of the eight-pointed star found on vyshyvanky. It is one of the most popular geometric motifs in Ukrainian embroidery. The eight points that make up its shape are not accidental. Biophysicists say that such a star - octahedron – is the model of an energy field built around any living organism. The human zygote undergoes its first cell division, forming eight cells, eight energy flows, which then shape the physical and spiritual essence of the embryo. The mallow is formed by placing a straight cross on top of an oblique cross. This straight cross is a symbol of masculinity and the Sun, where as the oblique cross is a symbol of femininity and the Moon. The joining of these two entities naturally gives life. The full mallow is often seen in icons of the Virgin Mary making it also known as the mother star. Stars in Ukrainian embroidery are seen as a mighty amulet against evil, preventing powerlessness by dispelling negativity. The stars presence also represents peoples connection with the stars and the cosmos.
Crosses
Unlike the circle and the square, the cross symbolises centricity as opposed to the separation of space. The crosses meaning can change depending on its positioning. A straight cross symbolises the Sun, the Creator and masculinity. An oblique cross personifies femininity and the Moon. When these two figures are placed on top of one another, they form a double cross, or an eight-pointed star - the symbol of union between two entities. It is known that in pre-Christian times the cross served as a talisman against evil spirits. Two intersecting lines symbolize the meeting of the Earthly and Heavenly. The cross also points to harmony of the four elements: fire, water, earth and air. A cross in a circle is the astrological symbol for the Earth.
Spiralling lines
Wavy lines, sigmas and zigzags represent water. This interpretation changes depending on its positioning. An image of vertically arranged parallel zigzags means rain that falls from above, while horizontal zigzags or straight lines can symbolise heavenly moisture. The spiral also refers to the fluidity of time and the cyclical movement of the sun. Our ancestors saw the spiral as a simplified image of the evolution of the Universe, its infinity. Even the structure of human DNA is similar to this pattern: each cell displays the life giving flow of matter and energy. Ancient embroidery had so called tryplillian spirals; a circle or semicircle that gradually increased in diameter.
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