Unveiling the language of shapes

Welcome to a journey beyond stitches and threads. Here, we explore the profound meanings woven into the shapes of Ukrainian embroidery.

Squares

Squares are found as the centre piece of ornamental designs in many cultures. The square symbolises perfection, harmony and order due to its four equal sides. In Ukrainian traditions specifically, the earth is generally portrayed as a square. A square with a cross in the center, often embroidered on men’s shirts, symbolises an “earthly field”. Spiritually squares symbolises matter, whereas the circle is perfection eg; the spirit, making it contrary to the square. The squares ability to be divided into 4 equal portions (fields) allows it to be recognised as the symbol for the primary elements; the four cardinal points, the four seasons, the four parts of the life cycle etc... This relates to it also symbolising order, excellence and inner peace.

Circles

The circle is one of the primary cultural symbols. It represents the Sun. This meaning originating in pagan religions, where it embodies divine, life-giving energy. The circle also refers to the continuity of life and eternity. Overall, this symbol has different variations that carry different meanings;

- A circle with a dot in the middle portrays the centre of the universe

- A circle that is surrounded by rays pointing outwards represents the sun and is meant to bestow strength and energy. however a sun with rays convergin inwards is representative of the imprisonment of energy. these sort of circles can represnt emptiness

- The circle can be a symbol of divine purity worn as a wreath by the bride.

Lozenge/Diamonds

The lozenge is an archaic shape (a form, figure, or design that is characteristic of a very old or primitive period, specifically the early, formative stages of a culture or artistic tradition) tied to human fertility and land. The concept of male and female, are instrumental, when deciphering the meaning of this symbol. In the ancient pre-modern Ukrainian period, it was believed that women held the three corners of the lozenge (the three corners of the home), while the man held the fourth, completing the family. A lozenge with a dot in the middle symbolises a sown field, which was extremely important for our ancestors as it guaranteed a good harvest. The lozenge is sometimes referred to as the trypillian square – a kind of harrow which is a farm implement used after plowing to break up soil clumps, smoothing the surface of the soil and preparing it for sowing. In addition to simple lozenges, we often see rhombuses with hooks (tiny horns) in Ukrainian embroidery. This design is called “zhaba” (toad) and symbolizes fertility. In ancient beliefs, this little creature was linked to heavenly moisture that gives life. Lozenge-shaped patterns were embroidered on wedding towels and bridal gowns. Pregnant woman wore shirts covered with diamond patterns until childbirth as this symbol served as a powerful talisman of good fortune and fertility.

Chevrons

A chevron is an open triangle. Figures in ancient Ukrainian embroidery are often portrayed by chevrons. They represent the male and female essence and spirit. Chevrons pointing downward refer to femininity and the material side of life. This downward direction also points towards the woman's womb where new life is created and born. Chevrons pointing upwards refer to masculinity and the spiritual side of life. Linear chevron designs create a jagged pattern. A chevron where the lines intersect at the top is one of the oldest ornamental symbols, representing a mountain or the Earth. Ancient towels embroidered with chevron symbols were commonly found in Chernihiv region.

Triangles

The triangle in ancient beleifs symbolized the narrow gate that leads to eternal life. The triangles three points hold a powerful significance. They represent;

- the unity of the realms; earth, the underworld and the heavens.

- the three elements; water, fire and air

- the three levels of being the holy trinity (in later christian beliefs)

The triangle has long been associated with Fire. Some researchers believe that the Ukrainian tryzub (trident) is a modern variation of the ancient triangle.

Triangles, whose tips touch each other, call to mind an hourglass. They symbolise the world and the underworld. The meeting or touching point represents the place of transition from one world to another. Sometimes, there is a line between the triangles. It is called the “Ring of Great Light”, which symbolises a mirror where one world is reflected in another and vice versa. Such symbols are often found on embroidered towels in Middle Dnipro regions and Slobozhanshchyna.